Spaghetti Bolognese Disappears From Restaurant Menus Lifestyle News
IT’S the Italian Snob — a heist that stole the much-loved “spag bol” from menus across Sydney.
Chefs are serving what they say are more authentic dishes, blaming the changing tastes of their customers.
And while purists are delighting in the demise of a “bastardised” dish, others are resorting to ordering the homestyle mince-sauce classic from the kids’ menu.
However, Barilla Australia executive chef Andrea Tranchero said spaghetti bolognese was a blend of traditional regional cuisines.
“The original bolognese is from Emilia-Romagna, a pork and beef ragu with less tomato sauce and lots of parmigiana served with egg tagliatelle,” he said.
“Spaghetti comes from the south and is served in a tomato-based sauce.”
He said “fusion makes confusion”.
“Don’t mix them,” Mr Tranchero said.
Restaurant and Catering Australia CEO Juliana Payne said the disappearance of the dish was an indication of changing tastes.
“Declining sales of spaghetti bolognese and subsequent menu changes are simply a reflection of these preferences when dining out,” she told The Saturday Telegraph.
Hospitality consultant and Council of Italian Restaurants in Australia member Roberto Dessanti said the spag bol was simply an Aussie idea about what an Italian dish might be.
“The vast majority of the dining public think it’s the kind of thing you’d find in Italy but Italian purists living here know it’s the Italian version of sweet and sour pork — it doesn’t actually exist,” he said.
“It has its place in Australian dining culture, even Italo-Australian culture, where we have grown up with Aussie-fied dishes like this, and now come to expect it on menus.”
But it’s gone from menus at longstanding Italian favourites such as Beppi’s, Lucio’s and Buon Riccordo.
And Bar Machiavelli chef Paola Toppi said pappardelle with lamb ragu was “the new spaghetti Bolognese”, with variations at A Tavola, Big Poppa’s and 10 William St.
“Italians usually make a ragu with pork or beef, even goat, but rarely with lamb. However, because of the great quality and accessibility of Australian lamb, we’ve adapted it,” Ms Toppi said.
But Criniti’s Italian executive chef John McFadden said the spaghetti bolognese was one of the venue’s top five dishes.
“It is one of my favourites, the perfect go-to comfort food you know is going to taste delicious. It’s a family classic at its best,” he said.